Segal SE 15361 Deadbolt – Jimmy-Proof Design Prohibits Forced Entry by Spreading of Door Frames – Solid Bronze Alloy, Brushed Brass, Angle and Flat Strike, Single Cylinder (Single Pack)

Probablement le meilleur Véro du monde s'il est bien installé on se donne la peine de remplacer le cylindre d'origine par quelque chose de sérieux. Rapport qualité-prix imbattable

about 15 years ago a lock like this on our front door broke and I went to a locksmith who ordered a similar lock for me. That lock worked until a few weeks ago and it broke. I took it apart and found much of the mechanism inside to be made cheaply out of thin stamped sheet steel and a couple of thin tabs broke making the key no longer able to unlock it from the outside. I looked online and found a lot of cheaper locks made in about the same pattern but wanted something tougher and found this one. It was well worth the price! The body is heavy molded bronze and brass. The mechanism is sturdy and also molded. The screw holes fit the old lock's holes (important in a heavy steel-clad door). There is a lip about 3/32" wide on the back side that is apparently meant to fit around the edge of the door that made it not fit flush against my door. I decided that the rest of it was so nice I wouldn't send it back and try again. Instead I bought a nice heavy file and in a few minutes I had that lip filed flat so that the lock mounted flush against my door. I doubt I'll ever need to replace this one.

10/10

When I opened the package, I discovered that the backplate was missing. Screws go through the backplate to hold the cylinder in position; without the backplate, the cylinder falls out. I have a metalworking shop in the basement, so I was able to make a substitute backplate. It's not as good as the real thing though. I' wrote Segal asking them to send a replacement. I heard from them a few hours later, saying that they've shipped me a replacement backplate. The directions specify a 1-3/8" hole saw to cut the hole for the cylinder. The cylinder is 1.175" in diameter. A 1-3/16" hole saw (1.1875") seemed to me to be a much better choice. I wrote and asked them about it. They replied that 1-3/8" is correct; the trim ring takes up the space and holds the cylinder in position. I'm guessing that the additional clearance allows for misplacement of holes and it will still work. One plus side, it seems to be a sturdy and well-made lock. Against that one has to balance a missing piece, promptly replaced.

Good quality, nice and heavy-duty. I realize these are not bump-proof, but for my application on a 111 year-old front door it's a vast improvement over the older surface-mounted lock that it replaced. This did include matching extra-long security screws to attach the strike plate (3" long I believe? Long enough to securely attach to the studs through a thick old plaster wall), I noticed this lock got a fairly negative review on a popular consumer-rating magazine's recent report without using the long screws and a better rating using them, they docked some points because they said the long screws were not included, but it appears that they do now include them. In my case, I have no doubt that the lock and latch are now the strongest part of the door- if someone wants to break in they will now either just break the glass or completely destroy the door jamb, but I don't think they will easily break the lock and latch. Good quality materials, seems much better made than the similar-looking locks that are about 1/3 the price. Wish they had it available in an antique brass or bronze color, but since it's made of bronze it can be darkened up a bit using Birchwood Caseys' brass-black.