The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking: How to Hand Sew Georgian Gowns and Wear Them With Style

This book is the first book I have seen quite like it - while there are many incredible resources out there for costumers interested in the 18th century, this is the most well-rounded, clear, colorful, and easy-to-follow book I've encountered yet. And it results in a period-correct garment!! Firstly, the book does not waste a lot of page space on fluff; it jumps straight into the good stuff immediately. The contents are extremely methodical, starting with what size and type of thread to use, a list of historical stitch types and how to use them, and how to make a mock-up (test garment in cheap fabric). It then breaks into four sections that each contain instructions for every piece in a complete look*. Each section has a small introduction about the period and nuances of its particular look; it talks about the history of the gown style, the fabrics used (and sometimes the differences between available modern fabrics vs. historical fabrics), and colors and decoration that would have been correct for the period. Following the introduction in each section, any special undergarments* necessary for that look are explained (these include underpetticoats, pocket hoops, split bum pads, bodiced petticoat, etc.) Each piece is actually laid out somewhat like a cookbook: lists of yardages and materials needed first, then a page showing the pattern pieces on a grid (which can be blown up on a photocopier), followed by a very visual (lots of pictures) tutorial on how to make each item. The tutorials shown clearly step-by-step , and utilize the hand-stitches taught in the first few pages of the book. After the undies, all the layers of each look are tutorialed in a logical progression from inside to out; gown petticoat, to stomacher, to gown, to trimmings. Every little piece has a how-to, from sleeve ruffles, to decorative bows, to pinked trim. An 18th century gown is an imposing project, but the way Stowell and Cox break it down makes it feel completely approachable, one piece at a time. There are so many photos of each process, including the fitting for each gown (the scariest part!), that even a brand new seamstress could feel reassured of success. After the gown tutorials, in each section there follows a tutorial for Every. Little. Accessory necessary to complete a look. Accessories are really what makes a look pop, bringing all the little details come together to make the wearer look like they just stepped out of a painting. Tiny accessories are included - like a ruffled ribbon choker and a tasseled sash - as well as larger and more involved accessories, such as a different cap for every era, hat trimmings, hat making, tuckers, mitts, aprons, reticules, etc. This is where you REALLY get the bang for your buck. Accessories are sometimes even more intimidating than a gown, because they can be complicated, fussy to research, and there are just so many darned options for them. At the very end of each of the four big sections are a couple "how to wear" pages, showing the model putting on each piece of the look, one garment at a time. It sort of recaps everything covered in the chapter by walking you through how to wear each piece (so you're not stuck wondering, "I have this tucker, but what tucks in and what tucks out? And how does this cap stay on my head?!") After all of the chapters, there is a small troubleshooting guide for how to address common fit problems one might encounter on the various styles. Since these garments are constructed so differently from modern clothing, it is a very helpful section even to an experienced seamstress. It includes a drawing of each fit problem and a blurb on how to correct it. Finally, there is an appendix (full of delicious citations, which are helpful to anybody who wants to dive deeper into research about each look and era), a short list of suppliers (it's always helpful to know sources for reliable materials for historical costuming), a wee bio on the authors, and a thorough index to help wade through all this awesome material. *NOTE: the only elements of each look NOT tutorialed in this book, are the shifts and stays. This is noted right away on the first couple pages of the book. Stays and all their variations are a very complex topic which could fill an entire other book like this one (which I would buy in a heartbeat!). Shifts also have a lot of variation, but they are a fairly simple project and there is a lot of information already out there on how to make them. Conclusion: this is an EXCELLENT resource, both for experienced costumers and new seamstresses. The huge amount of work that went into it is evinced in the beautiful and clear content. I am so excited to work my way through the making of each of these gowns!!

I could not wait to get this book and open it up. So what are you getting: Each chapter after the 1st has a photo of the completed garment and a page detailing the history of the item. CHAPTER ONE: • What the book is all about • Sewing an Eighteenth century gown • Fitting your mock-up • Piecing Items Historic stitches and how to sew them of which you get 16, this includes one picture on the left side and a short paragraph describing how to complete the stitch, as well what it’s uses are. CHAPTER TWO:English Gown The English gown, includes how to sew the English gown bodice, first fitting and attaching the skirts, sleeves and cuffs, second fitting and finishing up, Undies, Petticoat, Stomacher, neck handkerchief, apron, cap, mitts, simple straw hat and how to get dressed and wear your English gown. Chapter Three: The Sacque gown The pattern for this gown is Simplicity 8578 and 8579. This section includes-Fabric choices, note on hair styling ,side hoops, petticoat, trim, stomacher, bows, :The sacque gown-bodice and first fitting-skirt panels and second fitting, sleeves, third fitting hem and trim, choker necklace, apron, cap, sleeve flounces, lace tucker and how to get dressed and wear your gown CHAPTER FOUR: The Italian Gown Fabric choices, The false rump, petticoat, :The Italian gown bodice and first fitting-finishing the bodice and attaching the skirts-the sleeves and final fitting, cap, puffs and bows, hat ,apron, neck tucker and elbow ruffles, how to get dressed and wear your gown. CHAPTER FIVE:The Round Gown Fabric choices, undies-petticoat and back pad, :The Round Gown-the under bodice and first fitting-skirts and sleeves-setting the sleeves and finishing the bodice-over bodice and skirt fronts, third fitting and finishing, sash ,ruffled chemisette, skirt style chemisette, cap, turban wrap, hat, muff, reticule, and how to get dressed and wear your gown. Troubleshooting-goes overs common fitting problems and how to correct Appendix -I really enjoyed this section Supplier list Acknowledgment and biographies Index Likes: I feel like this book is complete. It bridges the gap between knowing what an 18th century garment looks like and how to construct one in an organic way. As well how to put it all together to have a complete authentic look. Dislikes: You only get gridded paper for the lining of the item and have to drape them to make them into the gown, which makes for pretty advanced work./Or you could try to find similar patterns and construct it from the book. I would have liked to have the Gowns on gridded paper and make the linings from there, as the linings are always easier to create. And /Or patterns for the gowns. As the description does not state it would include this information I did not take off any points. It would have been nice to have all the components in one book though. Not spiral, you can lay the book flat because of the way it is bound but I would have preferred spiral bound. I adore this book, think it accomplishes exactly what it said it would and hope that the authors continue to put out more..WINK WINK especially including a ROBE DE COUR, The pictures go hand in hand with the text and provide a resource for sewing these historical garments. Will I be sewing my entire ensemble by hand? Absolutely not but it will be good to be able to add some accurate hand sewing touches here and there.

Informational and wonderfully wrote!

This book really does fill the gap between academic research and hands-on application for womenswear in the 18th century. This book clarifies so much about dressmaking in this period. It is grounded in solid academic research. The book is PACKED with information, in an accessible, easily referenced way. The book features four distinct gown styles from different parts of the 18th century, and sets each within their historical context. Step by step instructions guide the reader through the making and fitting of each gown, as well as skirt underpinnings, petticoats, and accessories. Finally, step by step dressing instructions show just how to wear each style of gown. Stitch illustrations and a fitting guide perfectly illustrate the techniques needed to hand sew and fit clothing for this period. I wholeheartedly recommend this book to anyone who is interested in the practical making of accurate 18th century womenswear, or the history of fashion in general.

This is a beautiful book and I am so glad that I got it pre-ordered! It was such a delightful surprise when it was delivered to my door! This book has pictures detailing the construction of gowns that you can't easily find anywhere else! I wish there were more pictures, but they probably could have put a 2,000pg book together and I'd still wish for most pictures! This book is extremely helpful if you've already started to try and put gowns together. You definitely should have a working knowledge already of the gowns you're trying to make, but there are smaller projects included as well. I wouldn't give just this book to a novice sewer and expect them to recreate a gown right away but they will learn a ton! This book would go well with a book about Williamsburg clothing or a Janet Arnold book if you're new to the craft. I'm looking forward to using the tips and tricks and detail techniques I've already learned by speed reading through it twice!

If you are interested in learning hand sewing techniques suitable for constructing garments of any time period, this book provides beautifully detailed and photographed sewing instructions. I have hand sewn contemporary clothing since I was a girl in the 60’s - Dad taught me to use his mother’s Singer foot pedal but Mom got me started hand stitching first by teaching me how to hand set zippers. Here is the detail I have longed for all these years and have been unable to find in French handsewing texts that nowadays focus on more delicate fabrics and machine work. Now, with this book along with Claire Schaffer’s Couture Sewing books,and Natalie Chanin’s which focus on on constructing and embellishing garments made from knit jersey fabric, I have a wealth of handy contemporary references. I see constructions from this era that I intend to adapt to modern clothing for myself. This book has sent me over the moon! Hope it will make you happy too.

If you are even remotely into 18th century reenactment activities, you should get this book. It covers the basics (it does not cover much about constructing stays, however, which is also a “basic”) but it helps define the sewing process, which is all hand sewing, which I stink at, by the way, so I’m having a hard time, personally, but that's not anything to do with the quality of the book. The book explains the various types of gowns and underpinnings for different time periods including the popular “English Gown” and how to fit your work in the making process. There are also Sacque and Italian gowns. Plus all the other stuff you’ll need – petticoats, aprons, hats, etc. There’s a lot in this book. It’s definitely something you should have in your toolkit. If you are making one of these gowns for reenactment purposes, you will have to be historically accurate with your stitching techniques and they give you a primer on stitching and the various specific types that were employed in garment construction during the time period. Lots of images to follow along with. The nice thing about this book is that it can be supplemented with Simplicity patterns and the authors have a blog with helpful pattern hacks for altering the looks. They also have information on stays, which was the big missing item for me in the book. By the way, there are also some nice Butterick patterns and other patterns for an Outlander look you can get at Joann's or online that are not affiliated with this book but are still usable with techniques in this book. And the good news is they can all be altered into different, historically accurate looks. So overall, a great book with excellent images and instructions. Recommend.

I was pretty exited to receive this book after following the American Duchess blog for years. The information is very clear. The illustrations are top notch. I love having a visual reference for all the hand sewing techniques I've mostly just guessed on. The lay flat binding makes it easy to leave the book open to a technique leaving both hands free for sewing. There are no full size patterns in this book but anything with any sort of shape is illustrated on a gridded page so it's possible to tell proportions and how things should look full size. This is not just a dressmaking book. It is also a guide on how to wear what you create. Each dress has a section on how to get dressed as well as how to accessorize which stretches the use of any garment created.

Fabulous 18th Century dressmaking book. Bought it as a present. Patterns and pictures wonderful. So are the patterns.

Livro maravilhoso com técnicas detalhadas para reproduzir quatro looks específicos do século 18. Um verdadeiro mimo!

Very useful as a reference book.

ik en een vriendin hebben een robe a la francaice gemaakt met behulp van dit boek, goede kwaliteit en veer informatie. het is denk ik niet helemaal beginner vriendelijk, maar opzich wel te doen.

I am delighted with this book. I am not a historical costumer, but a seamstress with a love of "olden day dresses" and I was nicely surprised by the content within. Directions are given for 4 dresses/outfits, complete with accessories such as caps and aprons and more. There is even a guide in how to put on each dress, since getting dressed was clearly quite a big deal in the days before zip-up dresses and jeans. It gave me an appreciation for women's dedication to the fashion at the time - with so many layers and multiple pins holding parts together, even just walking in the outfit must have been an art in itself! Patterns are grid-drawings that you would need to copy to scale and adjust to your own proportions. To make these dresses you'd need a dress form (or the intended wearer with you, on which to make accurate pattern pieces and fit the dress). I do not have one, but I hear you can make from from duct tape! Also, unless you happen to be Bernadette Banner, you probably won't be wearing one of these ensembles to the shops. They are very costume-y. Yet I might attempt one of the "simpler" versions and wear it to a local "historical day" that the National Trust houses sometimes put on. Even if you don't plan to make a dress of this sort, the book is good for an enjoyable browse while having a cup of tea.