Set of 3 Swhacker 100 Grain 2 Inch Cut Broadheads

I hunt for deer and wild hogs in south-east Texas. I have been bow hunting for 2 years now and have tried several different flavors of broadhead. This one works well, and doesn't open to early or too late (the mechanical-blades DO WORK!!!). However, I don't notice any more or less penetration that I get with my old thunderheads that come 6 to a pack for less than $20. These were about $45 with tax and shipping for 3, and they require that you buy new rubber bands every time you shoot them (what they call shrink bands are nothing more than very small, very thin rubber bands that hold the blades in during flight until they are cut by the mechanical blades swinging open on contact).The one advantage I did notice is that with these 100 grain tips, I can shoot just like I am shooting field points (no need to adjust for the extra weight of the broad head). Of course I'm not the most accurate shooter in the world to begin with so, I pattern about the same regardless. LOLOverall, I'm not unhappy with them, but I'm not flabbergasted by their performance either. I still have to walk a good 40-50 yards into the woods from the kill zone to find my deer whether I use these fancy ones or my $3/per broadheads. I guess if you're just the guy that has to have the latest thing, it's a nice to have and it won't break the bank... but it's not a must have like some of the guys I hear at the archery shops say they are. Maybe if you're hunting elk or something bigger it would make a difference, but around here the white-tails are not much bigger than 150-200 lbs... and as long as you're hitting vitals a deer or a hog will go down pretty quick.Of note: This broadhead on a good carbon shaft (I mount them on bone-collectors) will run you $30-$35 (depending on if you trim your own shafts or have the shop do it - you can slpinter them up pretty bad if you don't know what you're doing). An aluminum Easton shaft with a thunderhead on it will cost about $6 and "anyone" can cut them down because they're aluminum. For my money, I use the high dollar rig to hunt white tails and the cheapees to hunt hogs... I shoot way more hogs than deer and don't usually get my arrows shafts back in one piece regardless of what I shoot (they usually come back warped or broken, and can only salvage the broad head).

Luckily enough, I was able to shoot a buck and a coyote within ten minutes of each other in the same spot to give me two occurrences to judge this review on. I am VERY pleased with the outcomes in both cases and everything is consistent with reviews and research available on the web. At this point, I strongly believe these are the best mechanical broadhead available today. The last mechanical I had was the Rage three blade and this performs much better. I held off on trying these for over a year because I have always shot 3 or four blade broadheads and wasn't sure about the two blade design. My experience with Rage broadheads included the 2 blade and 3 blade. My hunting partner shoots the two blade and we both had the same problems.First, the shots both went clean through and left huge exit holes. The blood trail on the deer was amazing given the shot placement was not great. It was a single lung and liver shot. The deer went less than 75 yards and there was never any searching for blood even in the dusky evening conditions. No flashlight required either. That was amazing to me. The coyote had better shot placement and went less than 30yds. No trailing necessary although it was not a problem.I was also pleased with the condition of the blades after the shots. I am used to Rage and having to replace blades after every shot. This was not the case with either of the shots taken with the Swhacker. Blades are in great condition and will get a light sharpening before re-use but no replacements. This is a nice time and cost savings.I am fully switching over to Swhacker. I just need to find someone to shoot my old Rage heads.

I've bought several of these based on reviews and friends' recommendations, so I own 6 of these heads. They are OK, they have some great features, and some so so. Let me lay it out in pro-con format.Pro:+ Really, really, really do fly like field heads. And, they're 100% consistent. I can do 2" groups at 20 yards all day.+ Simple = reliable. The bands are just strong enough to hold them closed in flight. I see no way that these could fail (and I'm one for one in actual use).+ Blades are very sharp and they have a good cutting radius.+ Devastating effect. I took a 100 pound doe with these today (75 pounds dressed). The arrow went straight through her. The doe took a few steps, staggered, fell on her side, and expired right in front of my stand. This is a very good thing, because...Now the Con:- The exit wound was pretty small and there was no blood where I shot her, or where she walked. In fact, there was not much blood where she expired. When I opened her up, she'd bled internally and there was plenty of blood, but had she made a run for it it would have been heck to track her.- The blades are weak. The one doe I took with it, was a pretty straight forward shot through the ribs, the blades were mangled. So if I have to replace the blades after every shot this head gets pricey.I think I'll keep them in my arsenal, but they won't be my primary head. I'll keep them when I want a more predictable flyer for some tricky shooting.