🚀 Elevate Your Printing Game!
The ANYCUBIC Predator Delta 3D Printer is a pre-assembled powerhouse featuring a solid metal construction, semi-auto leveling, and a generous print size of 370×370×455mm. Designed for both beginners and pros, it supports flexible filaments and ensures precision with its advanced auto leveling system.
P**X
Great.
The media could not be loaded. I knew it would be large in size, but check out my photo next to my MakerGear M2. I think you could stack six of them inside it.It took me 55 minutes to unbox it and finish assembly, which was just bolting the structure and plugging in some cables. Make sure to check the voltage switch on the power supply as it comes at 220.The fact that they added a bunch of stuff made it seem like they were not skimping on anything. It had a full 1KG roll of filament, two extra carbon arms, an extra hot-end, tweezers, hex keys, a micro flush-cutter, a scraper, unclogger tools, nozzles from 0.4mm to 0.8mm in size, and a few other things. There was a printed owner's manual too. I read that a lot of this stuff does not come with the printer if you get it from AliExpress.The printer has a filament sensor - which I have never had before. I was always throwing away my spools before they were empty so that I would never run out mid-print. Now I can use them to the end. The auto-level is nice - though I doubt I will need to level more than the first time. I verified that the printer actually can print a 370mm circle. The cooling system on the hot-end is impressive, with three fans.The print quality is the nicest I have seen on any FDM printer. See my close-up video where I compare my first print to an SLA print of the same model. But the thing I like most is how, with the auto level so perfect, the printer will just start on its own. I even set up OctoPrint so that I can start a print remotely. I really never had my previous printer set up well enough to be able to start a print without being there, but the LCD touch panel on this made it easy to get it all set up perfectly.I would not have been happy with a CR10 as I just don't think a moving bed makes sense on a printer that is not a small one -- too much mass to move around. This Predator has low moving mass, so I can really dial up the speed. The floating filament drive really helps it in this regard. This was a 58 lbs package when it arrived, and it feels like a lot of printer for the price.
N**K
Bed And Level Issues
I am going to start off by saying this is my first 3D printer so during my difficulties with this I assume a large portion of the problem lies with me.Positives: Sturdy, I dont feel like I have to be careful and meticulous to a fault with this. Print quality is decent and you really can set up and go. Noise isnt too bad but if you're in a small room it's all you will hear. The interface is very straight forward and easy to use. Cura makes it simple to just, drag, drop and print. Generally I agree with others that there are a lot of quality of life things, the ability to continuously print, pause, switch filament, great print size.Negatives: My prints wont stay level. Period. It's difficult for me to ascertain the exact issue, but to start with the leveling sensor is incredibly inconsistent. I print something, muzzle scrapes the bed badly. I relieved, nozzle to far up. Only on certain portions, your center and upper right could be perfect but your lower left could be way too high. Readjust, same problem just either too low or too high in other areas. Fine tuning is difficult as you can ONLY fine tune the height beyond .1mm if you are printing the TEST code. I've tried to adjust it in Cura but I have noticed no difference. I am not sure if the bed is heating up well enough as filament doesnt always adhere properly a lot of the time. Your print quality can also suffer due to the steppers shaking, causing some wobbling and affecting your final product.Currently support has sent me out a new bed and a cover strip that was not included initially. I reached out to their Facebook group as I couldnt keep staying up waiting for emails due to time difference but they just told me to keep emailing my original representative. I'm waiting to see if a new bed will help before I adjust this review. If not, I will be returning this printer.
P**R
It is an Eclectic choice. For Advanced users only (who don’t mind upgrades)
UPDATE 7/3/020: I've gone from loving to hating to loving this printer again. To be fair, I'm very experienced with other printers (I have two original Prusas in addition to this). The main reasons I decided to add this printer to my collection were: 1.)Size, I wanted to print larger pieces with larger nozzles. 2.)Its reasonable price, especially for such a big print area. 3.)Its a delta, I wanted to experiment with the pros/cons of this motion system, which is unlike Cartesian (X,Y,Z) printers. 4.)Its highly mod-able, if you're into that. Right out of the box I did some impressive prints including a large architectural wood tower about 2 feet tall and six inches wide which was flawless. Then I started getting into mods. Some of the mods I did with varying levels of success: 1.)Spring dampers on the arms (very easy, improves quality) 2.)Quieter fans@motherboard (moderately easy, but quieter) 3.)Electronic stepper dampers & TL smoothers (moderately), but helps print quality. 4.)Original Bondtech BMG extruder (harder to install, but is far superior to the original extruder). 6.)Volcano nozzle and hotend. (harder to install, with mixed results) This mod turned out to be a real pain, and I messed around with it endlessly (months) with poor results. This mod took me down a rabbit hole of potential hardware and software issues. What I eventually traced the problem to was poor quality in the (Chinese clone) Volcano heat blocks that I was buying off Amazon. The original e3d nozzle was not getting a consistent temp from the heat block, causing all sorts of chaos. I've abandoned this Volcano nozzle and gone back to the original heat block format. 7.)Heater bed insulation (easy, improves everything). 8.)Upgraded the 4010 blower fans to 4020's with custom-made fan shrouds.My planned upgrades from here are 9.)Hadyn's magnetic ball arms, and possibly 10.)Linear rails.I say all these because this printer has really proven to be a great advanced hobbist/mod printer. Its essential that if you're printing big you should be working with larger nozzles (.6, .8). Software has NOT been a straightforward matter but I have found success using Prusaslicer and Simplify3d. If you're skilled enough to learn how all this works, do some electronic modifications, and even tinker with advanced software settings and GCodes, then this printer has lots of room for growth. You can use the printer as a platform to create a much more sophisticated and capable delta unit. I would say this printer is NOT for beginners looking for the fastest, cheapest and most reliable way to great prints. This more like an intermediate-level printer that you graduate to after you build and work with many other printers. The Original Prusas I have deliver more consistent, finer quality prints with less hassle. But that's in part because the Prusa company has excellent software, and they're constantly improving every aspect of their units (software, firmware, and part design 24/7).So in summary its an interesting printer. Anycubic makes some aspects of it great (like the chassis, and metal parts), while others are mediocre. They might do well to sell sophisticated upgrades or replacement parts, and to consider units like this as a mod-able platform for medium to advanced users. For example, I've been eyeing linear rails as a superior motion system for these arms, but it has to be done right and is a bit complex. It would be really cool if you could get an original Ancubic high-end rail kit upgrade. At the same time, other mods like Magballs are a no-brainer to improve the experience. In terms of software Anycubic gets poor reviews, because they only utilize an older version of Cura and since I've owned the printer there haven't been any firmware updates. Software is an essential, critical aspect of 3d printing and I'd like to see more support. Anyway for beginners...definitely look elsewhere. For Intermediate-Advanced modders its a great choice as a Delta platform.UPDATE 8/2019: This is a replacement to a previous review I made about this printer, I deleted my old review to avoid confusion. Essentially, this is the NEWER version of the (well-reviewed) Anycubic Predator. Anycubic was recently concerned about branding issues so they scrapped the branding from "Predator" and now newer units have ANYCUBIC printed on the front. But this was not publicized, so I ordered this on Amazon and received one of the newer ANYCUBIC-branded units. Thinking that I was being scammed, I returned the unit, unassembled. After a few days Anycubic responded to me and explained about these branding issues (see below). SO I reordered the printer (I ate the shipping costs) and have since been putting it through its paces.PROS: Unprecedented price/build volume and Delta motion system. The hardware is generally of excellent quality, with precise metal extrusions throughout, and clean wiring and components. Its easy to assemble and tweak, unlike my two original Prusa's which I've been using and updating constantly (which have tight tolerances, cramped access, etc.). Deltas offer some unique capabilities including the ability to print extremely tall and slender objects (think a pipe standing straight up, because the bed itself doesn't move), and a faster potential print speed. Those are both core advantages over something like a CR-10. Like other FDM printers you can change the nozzle sizes and tweak the settings, which will produce wildly varying results. There is an active community of expert users out there who buy this printer and mod it significantly(especially on Facebook). One thing I really like about this printer as opposed to my two chambered original Prusas is that its much easier to swap out ANY parts, they even give you a spare hotend and all necessary tools. Pretty much any component can be replaced quickly (even the carriage wheels) which is the #1 reason why I'd recommend this printer. If you invest in this as a 'platform' you can upgrade it indefinitely and/or easily to replace anything that happens to wear out. I think that factor along with the giant build area makes this potentially, a 'classic' awesome printer.Cons: There are some finicky aspects that you should know about. 1.) Slicers. Anycubic provides an old version of Cura slicer, its recommended to use exact version as opposed to the newer versions of that software. I've found that this older version is just as easy to use and produces superior results. Working with other slicers is not so easy though. My favorite slicer, Simplify3d, doesn't have a pre-made profile and despite using and tweaking user-suggested settings I have yet to get it to actually work (it prints at Z-max?). Which is a bummer because I was very comfortable and adept with that slicer. 2.) The motion carriages come with a wrench to prevent wobble and this MUST be tuned precisely to get good results. Its not hard to do, but you have to adjust each carriage to move smoothly without falling under its weight...but more importantly it can't jiggle side-to-side, AT ALL. Its quite sensitive, a tiny bit off (quarter turn) will create a loose "jolting" sound while printing and will directly affect print quality, especially at higher speeds. Once you get the hang of it, its easy to adjust but it is mandatory to learn this. 3.)The bed leveling system is cool and simple, brilliant even. But if you find it doesn't deliver the expected results at first, consider calibrating while the bed is warm or even hot. The firmware doesn't prevent this, you just pre-heat for PLA and then calibrate the bed. After some mixed results, I did this and it seemed to improve my leveling a bit. 4.)Make sure to really wait for the bed to completely cool down 100% before attempting to take any print off. I like the print surface but I am somewhat concerned about its longevity, two early prints "stained" it, but didn't quite damage it. it would be nice if Anycubic had an online store to order spare parts (like an extra/replacement bed). Even better would be if Anycubic came out with a durable magnetic bed that was removable like the Prusas have. 5.) Response and support is not bad but considering the distance and language barrier you don't get the same updates like you'd expect with something like original Prusas. But that's likely true of many other printer manufacturers. So far I have found the default firmware and hardware quite workable.SUMMARY: This was my first experience with a Chinese 3d printer, and a Delta and I have to say, throw out all your outdated assumptions about cheaply-made Chinese things. This is a high quality printer delivered at a highly competitive price, and it can be tweaked to deliver excellent results.Update 12/2020The printer has been unreliable, specifically delivering random layer shifts that don’t seem to have a reducible mechanical cause. In all fairness to the company Anycubic, this could be for any number of reasons, including my many previous modifications. This is a printer for advanced experts who are comfortable with upgrades. To resolve my recent problems, I’ve decided that I’m going to completely replace the electronics with a high-end Duet2 WiFi system, screen, with Smart effector. I’ve heard many reports of unreliable electronics coming from overseas. I will also likely independently test the motors for reliability problems. I’ll report back...but the nice thing about this printer is that the major components (frame and structure), appear to be of excellent quality.
S**I
Molto buona la consiglio migliore 100 volte della vecchia kossel
Mi son preso un po’ di tempo per testarla Una stampante molto buona,struttura rigida facile il livellamento in più nella scatola ci sono delle barre aggiuntive di scorta,il livellamento e facile raggiunte anche i 100/mm per stampe non troppo complesse, in complesso la rumorosità e minore rispetto alla precendene chiron,L estrusore aereo mi piace come anche il filemanto posizionato sopra la stampante,nella assemblamento comunque consiglio di controllare che le varie viti siamo tirare e in seguito tirate bene le cinghie
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